CPHFW: Lovechild 1979
For the Autumn/Winter 2023 collection of Lovechild 1979, inspiration was taken from the geometric shapes of furniture designer Severin Hansen (1936-2020) whose stringent aesthetic combines a quintessential Scandinavian simplicity with an international and urban vibe. His subtle details – slanted cuts, tactile materials, graphic lines – are translated into clothes that play with the contrasts of masculine and feminine and explore the relationship between volume and silhouette.
“The architectural lines of classic mid-century Danish design have always resonated with Lovechild 1979 as they share a similar obsession with functionality, craftsmanship and the elegant beauty of minimalism.” Creative Director, Mia Kappelgaard opens.
Lovechild´s Autumn Winter 2023 was unfolded within the walls of the City Hall of Frederiksberg, the small town within central Copenhagen. A place heavy with the most exquisite Danish design, teak wooden panels on the walls, brass and leather detailing, yellow faded marble pillars connecting the glass roof with the white marble floors with brown geometric pattern. In the hands of architect Henning Hansen it was formed, but due to material shortage during the WW2, the construction stopped, only to be picked up after the end of the war.
“The public access to this splendid mid-century architecture and design, that the city hall invites the masses to, is to me a beautiful thought. Having this sublime housing that is open to the everyday citizen, is one of the inspirations for me to host our show within these walls. The contrast of the heavy marble against the fine wooden aesthetics on the balcony above, and the beautiful daylight searing through the glass roof filling the hall with soft light. It’s simply a marvelous building with history that flow through its walls.” Mia Kappelgaard continues.
Classic mid-century tones of neutral cream, navy, chocolate brown and greyscale form the architectural foundation for the season’s colour palette whilst soft shades of dirty rose, mid blue and mould green add a gentler touch. As in Hansen’s work, texture and handle are central: a 1950s style leather jacket adds urban edge for outerwear whilst a butter-soft shearling jacket offers a warm hug. A grey wool blazer has a sharp, masculine-inspired strictness that contrasts with the femininity of a full length pointelle dress whilst an oversized cardigan jacket in heavily textured rose coloured yarn offers an alternative take on tailoring. Elsewhere, a bold pink houndstooth check coat with oversized lapels adds a welcome shot of colour to a wintery day. Knitwear plays with volume as a slouchy alpaca blend T-neck sweater or a boxy cross-over V-neck in dense grey wool are matched with drapey pleated pinstripe trousers or voluminous cropped pants. And, as always, the finishing touches make an outfit: a structured leather tote bag adds a graphic element whilst heavy-soled shearling sandals are an unexpected and stylish foot-note.
See my favourite looks from “Considered simplicity”: