Time is of the essence in Baum und Pferdgarten’s Spring Summer 2023 collection, as the creative team dip into the fashion of the most recent decades and explore the concept of time: what is eternal style, what is fashion, and what has permanence in a woman’s sartorial arsenal. Led by this investigation, the designers pay tribute to the classic items in a woman’s wardrobe, and rework them for the women of today.

The designers revisited the iconic pieces in the 23 year legacy of the house and extracted the elements that are fundamentally Baum und Pferdgarten: flower prints, oversized styling, pinstripes, leopard and reinterpretations of the BP monogram. Following the previous collection, where influence was taken from French icons Cristo and Madame Grès, the collection also celebrates the timeless style of Parisian women. Infamous for their flair for true effortlessness, the collection presents a modern rendition of Parisian style. As a symbol of sublime form and function transcending time, the Eiffel tower works as a symbol of everlasting sophistication.

The season begins in a palette of deep blues and black, punctuated by flashes of deep purple, leopard and vanilla yellow. Offering the opportunity for transitional layering is an expertly tailored double-breasted full-length vest, cut from a smooth pinstripe wool blend. A sheer organza shirt dress is embellished with an all over chain print, a watch charm playfully hinting at the soon-to-be-released capsule collection of timepieces and costume jewellery created in collaboration with Danish watchmaker Skagen. The print is emblematic of the timeless theme and is reinterpreted in a multitude of ways in the collection: on shining blue crepe dresses, crisp white cotton shirts and shorts, and translucent organza statement pieces.

Vintage is modernised as an overcoat with an updated take on a ‘60s silhouette is released in a bold leopard print, a faux shearling collar adding a touch of tactility to the smooth, manmade surface of the coat; balancing the contemporary and the classic. Introducing a sporty touch to the collection is a boxy jacquard knit cardigan in deep purple and cream, embellished with the iconic BP monogram placed over a fresh take on a pinstripe.

Postage stamp emblems calling out “Coucou de Paris” (“Hello from Paris”) cover an ‘20s organza dress with puff sleeves and a reworked empire waistband. The stamp also embellishes the front of easy-to-wear jersey t-shirts and sweatshirts, for a perfect take on the urban timeless look. Injecting modern sensuality is a ‘90s corset top rendered in panels of denim, presented alongside a patchworkstyle ‘70s crocheted mini skirt with retro homemade sensibilities.

A pair of open lace trousers with ‘80s style offer masterful layering opportunities, to be worn under dresses or over skinhugging shorts. A boxy jacket reminiscent of the ‘40s with workwear-referenced pockets is presented in a textured jacquard fabric boasting a swirling deconstructed leopard print.

The final drop of the collection welcomes tones of peach, pale greens and tangerine. The classic trench coat is reimagined with a contrasting reverse – a floaty panel of bright flowers peeking out from behind a crisp taupe front. Another piece for transeasonal layering is an open weave crochet cardigan, knitted with shell shapes and finished with feminine scalloped edges. The sporty jacquard knit returns in green tones in a fresh cropped tank, seen next to sportswear-inspired peach toned drawstring trousers with a dry surface, finished with adjustable straps at the ankle for silhouette manipulation. A silk dress printed with a bloom of summer flowers brings the feminine form to centre stage, ruching through the front and at the sides creating a figure-hugging silhouette elaborating on the focus point of the previous collection.

See my favourite looks below: