Aug 12, 2022

CPHFW23: Rabens Saloner

James Cochrane

When it comes to style, sometimes the most beautiful things come from the unexpected: the way colours react when put together by accident or the way a silhouette changes when clothes fall in an unplanned manner. Inspired by such serendipity, Rabens Saloner has created a summer collection that celebrates the joy of light and easy dressing and the allure of the happy accident.Taking a colour palette from the organic silicone paintings of contemporary artist Lev Khesin, a background of graphic black, white and crystal grey is given bold shots of strawberry, jade and lemon zest to add a dynamic and optimistic edge. Fabrics throughout are light and airy, giving a carefree attitude to summer dressing whilst textures play with the contrast between shiny and matt or organic and ordered.Linen tailoring in chalky blue has a slouchy yet sexy silhouette with super wide trousers matched with a bandeau top whilst a classic trench coat is cut away to unexpectedly make a summer dress. Seasonal lightweight outerwear plays with texture in a cropped blouson made from an irregular swirling jacquard and a padded jacket in bright yellow with a trompe l’oeil oversized weave stitching. For later in the day, a lightweight tuxedo jacket paired with shorts creates a nonchalant and updated version of a classic Le Smoking suit.

Striped shirting is taken out of a men’s wardrobe and reworked into gathered dresses and ruffled boleros whilst the same fabric gives a pair of combat pants the ease of pyjamas. A lightweight paper-like fabric folds irregularly across the body in a dress that gives a sense of easy drama whilst asymmetric gathers in voluminous shapes give an informal attitude to shimmering fabrics. Tie dye, as always, is central to the Rabens Saloner universe and is perhaps the ultimate in organic print making, with each piece created by hand with slightly different results. This season, a haphazard, hand painted multistripe emphasises long fluid silhouettes whilst a soft, mottled effect gives a unique quality to both bias cut tea dresses and sporty sweatshirts. Elsewhere, a bold striated print is used for dramatic effect in a blazer and pants.As a bright summer day slips into a warm evening, the same sense of relaxed lightness pervades the collection. Downplayed glamour is exemplified by matt blush pink sequins in easy t-shirts and asymmetric skirts whilst lingerie-inspired camisoles and dresses match satin with a contemporary and organic take on lace. Knitwear too remains feather light with hand dyed mohair sweaters and cobweb tops and even accessories show a casual sense of glamour with strappy sandals fashioned from rope and giant clutch bags made from technical nylon. After all, as the Rabens girl knows only too well, true style can come from the most surprising places.

See my favourite looks below:

James Cochrane

 

James Cochrane

 

James Cochrane

 

James Cochrane

 

James Cochrane

 

James Cochrane

 

James Cochrane

 

James Cochrane

Details I love:

 

Pictures: Rabens Saloner Press Material

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