There is no better way to get to know Porto than by walking it.

On our first visit to the city, we wanted to experience it at street level, winding our way through steep lanes, past colourful façades and centuries old buildings, never quite knowing what view might appear around the next corner. In Porto, even the simplest journey can become part of the experience.

For our stay, we chose the iconic Infante Sagres, Porto’s first five star hotel. Opened in 1951, the hotel takes its name from Prince Henry the Navigator, the Portuguese prince traditionally associated with the beginning of the Age of Discovery. More than seven decades later, it remains woven into the story of the city, with a reputation for timeless elegance, personalised service and old world glamour. Set on Praça de Dona Filipa de Lencastre, in the heart of Porto’s historic centre, the hotel sits within the UNESCO World Heritage listed old town and close to many of the city’s principal attractions. It was the kind of location that made exploring feel effortless. Breakfast in the morning, a few steps outside, and the city was ours to discover.

From the moment we arrived, the Infante Sagres felt distinctly different from a conventional city hotel. Our welcome began, appropriately enough, with a glass of Port wine and cookies, a small but memorable gesture in a city so closely associated with Portugal’s famous fortified wine. Inside, elegant interiors and historic details create the feeling of a grand European residence. There is sophistication without formality, and the atmosphere feels warm and welcoming. The staff were attentive from the outset, making the experience feel personal without ever becoming intrusive.

There is an understated glamour to the Infante Sagres, but it never feels removed from the city outside. After a day spent walking through Porto, it was a pleasure to return somewhere that felt calm and comfortable, while still retaining a sense of occasion.

From the hotel, we set off towards São Bento Railway Station, where the grand entrance hall is covered in spectacular blue and white azulejos. From there, we continued towards Livraria Lello, one of Porto’s most celebrated historic bookshops, before climbing towards the imposing Clérigos Tower. Further downhill, the city gradually opens towards the Douro, eventually leading to the Dom Luís I Bridge, where the view across the river makes the climb worthwhile.

Crossing into Vila Nova de Gaia offered another perspective. From the opposite bank, Porto rises dramatically above the Douro, while the famous Port wine cellars provide another way to discover the region’s history and culture.

But some of our favourite moments came without a destination at all.

We wandered down side streets simply because they looked interesting. We stopped for coffee when we found a café we liked and paused to admire balconies, tiled façades and old doorways. Porto has a wonderful way of making everyday life part of the scenery.

One afternoon, we noticed two friends having a conversation across the narrow gap between their homes, one leaning from a window above and the other just a floor below. It was such an ordinary moment, yet somehow it captured what we loved about the city: life unfolding naturally in the streets, between neighbours and across balconies.

We found restaurants almost by accident and took plenty of detours along the way. In Porto, the best discoveries are often the ones you are not looking for. There is one thing you quickly learn when exploring Porto on foot: the city is very hilly. The steep streets are undeniably part of its charm, but after several days of climbing and descending, our legs were beginning to notice. By the end of the day, dinner felt like something we had genuinely earned.

That made the hotel’s pool particularly welcome. After hours of exploring, it was lovely to change into something comfortable, slow down and spend time by the water before getting ready for the evening. Set above the city, the terrace offered a peaceful place to enjoy the sunshine and take a refreshing swim during the warmer months.

Our room continued the balance between classic elegance and modern comfort. We had a lovely view, and the bed was particularly welcome after a full day on Porto’s hills. In the evening, the hotel provided turndown service, with sleeping masks thoughtfully placed in the room. It was a small detail, but one that felt genuinely considered.

Breakfast became another part of the daily ritual. The elegant setting and generous choice made it easy to linger over the first coffee of the day, and much to my delight, there was an açaí bowl, one of my personal favourites. From there, we would head back into the city with only the vaguest idea of where we might end up.

During our stay, we experienced a mixture of sunshine and occasional rain showers, and somehow both suited Porto. When the streets were wet, the colours of the buildings seemed deeper, while the pavements reflected the surrounding architecture and cafés became even more inviting. Then the clouds would lift, the sun would come through and the whole city seemed to change character, brighter, livelier and full of energy. Rather than interrupting our plans, the weather became part of the experience. We walked through the rain, ducked into cafés, waited for the sun and carried on. Perhaps that is one of Porto’s greatest charms. It does not feel like a city that needs to be conquered. It invites you to take your time and notice what is around you, whether that is an extraordinary view over the Douro or simply two neighbours talking between their windows.

Porto rewards curiosity. Come for the architecture, stay for the food and wine, and be prepared to walk, a lot. The hills may test your legs, but they also lead to some of the city’s most beautiful views. For us, the pleasure was in the combination of it all: slow mornings, long walks, unexpected discoveries, good food and wine, and a comfortable place to return to at the end of the day.

Some cities you visit. Others you experience. Porto, for us, was very much the latter.

We will definitely be back.