Soeren Le Schmidt’s new SS23 collection shows the designers well-known signature take on modern tailoring. The collection combines minimalism and simplicity with a modern take on the classic suit and a new take on evening wear. Throughout the collection an architectural take is combined with a more evening wear aesthetic, creating Soeren Le Schmidt ́s unique take on how to dress the modern man and woman.

The show was held in the iconic Danish area Refshaleøen in Copenhagen, known for its industrial history overlooking the harbor of Copenhagen. The industrial rawness of the location is supposed to create a contrast to the elegance and architectural elements of the designs. The collection is more than ever focused on evening wear, big dresses and suiting, which called for a contrast when choosing the location. To elevate the feeling of elegance and simplicity in the collection, a gospel choir was performing acapella during the show. The choir was also wearing custom designed robes by Soeren Le Schmidt.

Soeren Le Schmidt’s approach to the collection, has been to combine his sources of inspiration from architecture and travels with a new approach to taking elements of the well-known suiting into a new area. The idea was to take asymmetric lines and cuts and combine them with something unnatural and surprising. The idea of manipulating the classic way of working with a suit is taken into a new era, by combining the old-school idea of couture with a younger and more rock and roll visual aesthetic. This was also clear not only through the clothing, but also in the hair and make- up. Through the gender fluid collection, Soeren Le Schmidt wishes to wash out the normative way of thinking clothing for men and women, creating a new and interesting focus on gender and fluidity.

The collection is mainly kept in black and white with Soeren Le Schmidt’s signature color-splash – this time in yellow. The textiles are as always leftover fabrics and upcycled items from previous collections, kept in a few very simple fabrics with a few added materials such as feathers and metals, creating a link between garments, make-up, and jewelry.

My favourite looks:

Pictures Credit: SLS Press Material / Murphography