Milan has always understood the art of contrast. It is a city where centuries-old palazzi sit alongside daring contemporary architecture; where impeccable tailoring meets effortless sprezzatura; and where tradition is less a rulebook than a starting point for reinvention.

The same can be said of its food. Milanese cuisine is deeply rooted in history, yet the city’s dining scene is anything but static. Classic dishes sit comfortably alongside modern Italian cooking, Michelin-starred creativity and beautifully considered hotel dining. During our stay, we set out to experience as much of it as possible: from leisurely lunches hidden within elegant courtyards to intimate dinners and a theatrical Michelin-starred finale.

There was, naturally, plenty of gelato in between.

Mandarin Garden, at Mandarin Oriental:

Our first taste of Milan came at Mandarin Garden at Mandarin Oriental, Milan, and it was an elegant introduction to the city.

Tucked inside the hotel, the restaurant opens onto a lush courtyard that feels almost secret: a pocket of greenery concealed in the heart of Milan. Italian design is softened by abundant foliage and subtle Oriental influences, creating a setting that feels polished without ever becoming formal.

From the moment we arrived, the service was warm, attentive and genuinely welcoming.

The menu is overseen by two-Michelin-starred Executive Chef Antonio Guida, whose cooking brings together Italian and Milanese traditions with a distinctly contemporary sensibility. Seasonal ingredients take centre stage, treated with precision but never stripped of their character.

We began with lobster pasta, ragù and Pugliese focaccia, and the focaccia deserves a special mention: quite simply, it was out of this world. For our main course, we both chose the cod, which arrived beautifully cooked, delicate, tender and wonderfully fresh. Dessert, naturally, was gelato.

There was something particularly lovely about the rhythm of the lunch: excellent ingredients, thoughtful cooking and impeccable service, all enjoyed at an unhurried pace.

A rather perfect beginning to our Milanese culinary adventure.

Zelo, Four Seasons Hotel Milano

For dinner, we made our way to Zelo at Four Seasons Hotel Milano, a refined and intimate setting in the heart of the city.

The evening began with two standout dishes: Raviolo del Plin stuffed with ricotta cheese, truffle butter and summer black truffle, followed by Linguine “Pastificio Gentile” with lobster and sea urchins.

The raviolo was rich and indulgent, with the truffle butter and summer black truffle bringing an earthy depth to the delicate pasta. The linguine offered a beautiful balance of flavours, pairing the natural sweetness of lobster with the distinctive, delicate character of sea urchin.

For our main course, we chose sea bass with smooth mashed potatoes and tomato confit. The fish was delicate and beautifully prepared, while the accompanying elements added richness and freshness to the dish.

At the helm is Executive Chef Fabrizio Borraccino, whose cooking celebrates Italian ingredients, seasonality and the country’s extraordinary regional diversity. His approach brings a contemporary sensibility to Italian cuisine while keeping the ingredients and traditions at its heart.

Zelo itself has an elegant yet welcoming atmosphere, with sophisticated surroundings that never feel overly formal. It is the kind of restaurant where you can settle in, take your time and enjoy the evening at your own pace.

And by now, gelato had become something of a tradition during our stay. Naturally, we finished the evening with another delicious serving.

The Carlton Bar, The Carlton Milano

On another evening, we headed to The Carlton Bar, beginning the night with drinks and a selection of beautifully presented small dishes before settling in for dinner.

One of the city’s newest luxury hotels, The Carlton Milan, part of Rocco Forte Hotels, occupies an enviable address between Via Senato and Via della Spiga. The hotel combines unmistakably Milanese style with the intimacy of a private residence, while its culinary spaces are overseen by acclaimed Italian chef Fulvio Pierangelini.

We started at the bar, where a selection of innovative drinks and delicious small dishes made for a particularly lovely introduction to the evening. There was something wonderfully relaxed about beginning with a drink in hand, discovering a few of the bar’s more playful creations and taking in the atmosphere of the hotel.

Later, we moved on to dinner, beginning with burrata and lobster salad, both beautifully fresh and perfectly suited to a summer evening. For the main course, we shared an incredible lasagna and Chicken Milanese, both beautifully executed.

The Chicken Milanese is a lighter interpretation of one of Milan’s most emblematic dishes, cotoletta alla Milanese. Traditionally made with veal, the classic is breaded and fried until golden and crisp while remaining beautifully tender within. The version we enjoyed offered that same irresistible contrast of a delicate, crunchy crust and juicy meat.

The Carlton Bar has a glamour that feels distinctly Milanese, polished but never overstated, with intimate interiors and a leafy outdoor setting. There is an effortless sense of old-world sophistication to the space, making it equally appealing for an aperitivo, a few inventive drinks or a leisurely dinner. We loved the rhythm of the evening: beginning with cocktails and small plates at the bar, before moving on to a relaxed dinner.

And, naturally, we ended the night with gelato.

Il Cairoli Restaurant & Bar

On our final full day in Milan, we stopped for lunch at Il Cairoli Bar & Restaurant, a welcome pause between exploring the city and another afternoon of wandering its streets.

We began with traditional mondeghili, served with green sauce and saffron mayonnaise, followed by homemade egg noodles with bisque and red shrimp.

But the dish that truly stayed with us was the restaurant’s signature Milanese risotto with ossobuco medallion.

If there is such a thing as Milan on a plate, this is it. Creamy saffron risotto meets tender ossobuco, bringing together two of the city’s most enduring culinary signatures. The risotto was rich and comforting, yet beautifully balanced, with the delicate perfume of saffron keeping the dish elegant rather than heavy.

It was, quite honestly, so good that we would return for this dish alone.

Dessert took a decidedly more playful turn: an incredibly inventive popcorn dessert that brought a sense of fun to the end of an otherwise wonderfully classic Milanese lunch.

The meal captured exactly what we had hoped to find in Milan’s food scene: tradition, local character and just enough unexpected creativity to keep things interesting.

Il Cairoli is also listed in the MICHELIN Guide, recognised for its Milanese cuisine, making it a particularly worthwhile stop for anyone looking to explore the city’s culinary heritage.

Contraste

To end our stay in Milan, we were treated to an extraordinary evening at Contraste, the Michelin-starred restaurant created by chef Matias Perdomo.

From the moment we arrived, there was a sense that the evening would be something special. We received a warm and personal welcome, had the pleasure of meeting the talented chef Matias, and were then taken on a culinary journey filled with creativity, curiosity and unexpected moments.

Founded in 2015, Contraste was created with the idea of challenging expectations and making dining feel entirely unexpected. The restaurant’s philosophy centres on provoking and entertaining its guests, inviting them to approach the experience with a sense of curiosity and playfulness.

That spirit is beautifully woven throughout the evening. The cooking explores form, texture and familiar culinary ideas, transforming recognisable ingredients and traditions into something entirely new. There is remarkable creativity and precision behind each dish, yet the food never loses sight of what matters most: flavour and pleasure.

Throughout the evening, we were treated to a succession of imaginative dishes and playful interpretations of Italian flavours. What made the experience so memorable was the way creativity and flavour went hand in hand. Every course was beautifully presented, unexpected and, above all, genuinely delicious. From a delicate rose crafted entirely from shrimp to Milanese risotto with saffron reimagined in the most extraordinary way, each dish brought something new to the table. There was a wonderful sense of anticipation as we wondered what would arrive next, making the entire dinner feel like an experience to be tasted, discovered and enjoyed.

There was also a wonderful sense of theatre to the evening. Each course revealed a new idea or unexpected detail, while the wine and drink pairings complemented the food beautifully, adding another layer to the experience.

The setting itself is part of the magic. Contraste is tucked away behind an understated entrance and small garden, inside an old villa away from the noise of the city. With space for around 30 guests, the restaurant has an intimate quality that makes the experience feel remarkably personal.

What we loved most was the combination of creativity, precision, playfulness and hospitality. We weren’t simply sitting down for dinner; we were invited to look a little closer, taste a little more carefully, guess what each dish might be and, most importantly, have fun.

We had such a wonderful time at Contraste, and it was a truly memorable way to close our stay in Milan. After several days of discovering the city’s food scene, we left very happy, very full and with an even greater appreciation for Milan’s extraordinary culinary identity, a city where tradition remains deeply cherished, while imagination is given plenty of room to flourish.

And, of course, there was still time for a little more gelato along the way.